The Smiling Coast lives up to its moniker as incredibly friendly people, ranging history and biodiversity make it a holiday destination that offers a little bit of everything.
The Gambia, like most countries, has a scarred history. From its brutal tribalism to the slave trade, right up to their recent military dictatorship.
It can all be seen, either in monuments like the Wassu Stone Circles, Kunte Kinteh Island or the dilapidated Janjanbureh (originally called Georgetown, this was a British colonial outpost on McCarthy Island in the River Gambia, all that remain are a few derelict warehouses. It's a popular overnight stay for people travelling the length of the 700-mile river, but not really a destination).
It's also noticeable in transport hubs like the Banjul-Barra ferry crossing and the Old Town. It feels like Gambians working hard to make a living, but always with a smile, have a simple philosophy - if you're happy, I'm happy. Adversity has made people appreciate each other and value what's important.
Or perhaps it's their Islamic ideals that cause this community feel, as 96% of the population identify as Muslim. Although, you wouldn't know it, the mosques are low key and traditional Islamic dress is an infrequent sight. I've never even heard the call to prayer out here, but I have seen men praying on the deck of the boat and by market stalls.
Banjul is an administrative hub, so is quiet during the weekends. That said, Albert Market, built around the colonial market place, is still a throng of people and traders alike. The rest of Banjul is a colourful, modern city marked by monuments to its independence and subsequent corrupt, megalomanic leaders.
It's the capital but tiny in comparison to other towns in the Gambia, like Senegambia and other dotted along the southern coastline. The busy thoroughfares packed with goods from reclaimed engines to Ovaltine.
Wherever you are, Gambians are pretty open about everything. Although democracy has been restored, all they all mean about politicians making promises about sunny uplands but once in power descend into corruption.
The current government, the interior ministery particularly, will sell diplomatic passports to anyone with a couple of grand (GBP). This attracts terrorists and drug barons. All the while using tax money to line their own pockets instead of lining the crater littered roads with tarmac.
Personally, I think the Gambia would be the perfect anarchic state. Its young population is made up almost entirely of tall, strong, handsome people. A population made for mucking in to build a nation for the people. Everyone here seems to have so many practical skills that in a nuclear holocaust, it would be BAU.
You couldn't come here without exploring its natural beauty also. It's everywhere, you don't need to go to a destination. From crocodile parks to baboon sanctuaries and even camel safaris - it seems to can't go 2 metres without coming across some nature reserve.
However, I'm wary of parks that boast about being able to walk among the hyenas and pet the crocodiles. I never partake in any activity or industry that's built on animal exploitation. So that's a no for elephant rides or tiger cages from me. Those animals are broken and drugged in order to be docile for tourists. We have a duty to strangle this economy so it ceases to exist.
But there are ways to enjoy wildlife without these animal theme parks. Head to Gambia National Park, human free islands where you can observe chimps, baboons, hippos and crocodiles from the safety of a paddling fishing boat.
The Gambia is so rich in wildlife, you can see plenty of the 400 species of bird who call this home just by walking around and looking up. Even in the bustle of Banjul, I saw vultures circling the fishing boats and magpie crow hybrids (David Attenborough, I ain't) around Tanji.
My main take out was how little Gambia cares about climate change. Everything is packaged in plastic, even things that don't need to be. As Europe pooh-poohs plastic straws, it's a thriving industry here. And the majority of cars on the road pump so many fumes in the air, it burns your throat.
I found out from the owner of Gaya Art Cafe, that 35% of a hotel's overheads is spent on energy. And the hotel we stayed at has 30 boreholes on-site to meet water demand. Apparently, getting hotels to change their ways is a struggle because of the cost and it's not seen as a priority.
I get it. In a country that's still healing from human rights abuses from its former president, victims of colonial rape and widespread poverty, other things are more important.
However, its over-reliance on foreign investment (the Japanese government has built water pumping stations, the Turks donated a power plant and the EU have built roads) and continued Chinese infiltration (Chinese goods dominate all the market places from rice to shoes and their building programmes benefit only Chinese workers and government) means the Gambia is still not a master of its own destiny.
Other things I learnt while here:
- The standard greeting is "hello, how are you?"
- They'll apologise for everything, from your mosquito bites to the rain
- Tipping is expected but not demanded, remember 200D is the price of a Pret sandwich for you but a lot to them
- April to October is wet season and out of season, a lot of things are closed but it is quieter. September is on the cusp, so you get the best of both. I guess March is the same.
