Turkey's second city acts at the gateway to Europe from the east. It offers history in abundance, living side-by-side with modernity in this liberal, friendly and vibrant city.

It's been destroyed and built many times, but its spirituality remains in tack. Even though it's full of click-happy tourists, it does feel distinctly divine. No wonder it's the second most important place in the Eastern Orthodox faith.

2. Blue Mosque

Across the road from Istanbul's most iconic landmark is the Blue Mosque, built in the image of its Christian counterpart. Two of the world's biggest religions, side-by-side. One paying homage to its predecessor.

Entry is far more structured as they hand out clothes, headscarves and shoe bags. As you're ushered through into the impressively decorated walls, you're invited to sit down and contemplate along with their patrons who are deep in prayer.

It feels a bit odd to have busloads of tourists taking photos and being their normal touristy selves while others are worshipping, but it's worth the trip.

3. Galata Bridge

It seems weird to put a bridge on a list like this. And seeing it unavoidable if you plan on walking across the strait to Galata Tower, but the bridge in itself is landmark due to the hoards of fishermen lining the railings and flotillas coming and going. It's a bustling place and there's nowhere to really chill on the bridge, but plenty of places around it.

4. Hippodrome

On the other side of the Blue Mosque is the vast space that was the Byzantium hippodrome. It's not just a pretty manicure, green respite from the bustle of the city that should draw you here. But it's steeped in history.

It was built in 203 AD by Roman Emporer Septimus Severus and enlarged by Konstantine the Great to display his power and wealth. It once held 100,000 people and covered 480 metres. Even after the fall of Constantinople in 1453, the Ottoman sultans kept using it for state ceremonies.

Take a look around to see the Egyptian obelisk dating back to the 6th Century BC to commemorate campaigns by Pharoah Thutmose III and stands at 60 metres tall. However, Emporer Theodosius directed frieze on the base to depict the rise of Constantinople.

Also, the Serpentine Column that came from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi made to honour the god by the 31 Greek cities that beat the Persians in 479BC. It was bought by Emporer Konstantine and damaged by the marauding Mehmet the Conquerer.

There's also Fountain of Kaiser Wilhelm I, which dominates the space. It was a gift from the king to the sultan in 1898.

5. Grand Bazaar

No Arabic or Middle Eastern city would be complete without a bazaar. And the grand bazaar is impressive in its size and grandeur. You can buy anything here or enjoy traditional Turkish coffee in one of the trendy coffee shops inside.

6. Basilica Cistern

Across the road from Ayia Sofia and the Blue Mosque is the Basilica Cistern. It's dark, but no need to bring a torch. The wooden bridge guides through the most impressive man-made underwater reservoir which once served the Topkapi Palace.

It's classical columns and impressive sculptures of Medusa leave you wondering what on earth went wrong in the world that we can't make even the most expensive structures (like the tacky trophy cabinet of skyscrapers in the City of London) as beautiful as a functional building that was never meant to be seen the public.

There's also an opportunity for you and family to dress up as Ottoman nobles for a photo op. Why anyone would do this is beyond me, but hey people need to make a living.

7. Hammami

You're not short of places to have a Turkish bath in Turkey's second city. It's awash (see what I did there) with Ottoman-era hammams. I went to Aga, in the Beyoglu area of the city.

For around £45 we had a wash, scrub, facial and massage. It was money well spent as I came out looking like a newborn baby. You'll need swimwear but don't be too bashful here, they'll whip off your top and start scrubbing you in front of whoever you're with.

Don't worry, you'll get a chance to lounge about drinking tea too.

8. Watch the whirling dervishes

The dervishes have dedicated their lives Sufi mysticism and their presence has become synonymous with the city and Turkish culture.

Whirling dervishes at Mevlevihanesi

I went to Galata Mevlevihanesi, which is easy to get to if you're near Galata Tower, Tunel or Istikiklal Avenue. You could even get on the iconic red tram to it.

It's the oldest Sufi lodge in the city and it opens its doors to visitors to watch the dervishes whirling at 5pm on Sundays. Get there early to buy tickets, as there's limited space.

It's a deeply moving experience. You'll want to capture it, but please spend time away from your screen and allow yourself to mentally whirl with them. I wasn't praying to reach extreme nirvana and get closer to god, but I did have an awakening.

There are other places you catch the experience.

9. Topkapi Palace

Even if you don't go inside, the grounds outside are a brilliant way of getting away from the hustle and bustle of a working city.

Inside, you'll find a palace fit for a sultan who's desperate to compete with their European counterparts.

Originally published 5 October 2019