The basics
- They speak Portguese - most locals are multi-lingual but English is generally at a basic level.
- The local currency is escudos but everything is quoted in euros.
- If you pay by card (which is widely accepted), it'll be charged in the local currency.
- ATMs are everywhere.
- Water is salinated but not fit for consumption.
- Plugs are the familiar rounded double pin.
- It's perfectly safe regardless of gender, orientation, race, ability or religion.
- There are a few good roads (and empty with familiar road rules but no one is around to check) but to get to the tourist attractions, you need a 4x4.
- If you're on a UK network, data roaming, calls and texts are expensive.
- Taxis to and from the airport are 1,500 escudos (15 euros).
- There's no public transport but there's virtually no traffic so hiring a car, moped or bike is perfectly safe.
- There are lots of stray dogs who love tourists as they're the ones who feed them but they stay out of your way if you've not raided the sausage tray of your all-inclusive.
- The terraine is dry, flat and barren - hence most foods are imported.
- You're closer to the equator so the sun is very hot, pack factor 50, lip balm with SPF and a hat that sits tightly on your head. Don't let the wind fool you.
- And on that, pack pegs or a luggage strap to anchor towels to sunloungers.
Food and drink
- Seafood is a staple, veggies options are widely available, vegan is non-existent.
- The national dish is cachupa - a stew with corn kernals, beans, meat/fish and veg.
- The national drink is grogue, which they claim doesn't give you hangover because it kicks in while you're drunk. It's used in a local cocktail Pontche, which has a Desaronno taste.
- All restaurants offer a variety of cuisines, from pizzas and burgers to lobster and local dishes.
- There is an Irish bar on the beachfront at Santa Maria and an English bar imaginatively called Dubliner and Britannia, respectively.
- There are plenty hole in the wall type bars dotted around.
- Best for live music are One Love Reggae Bar and Buddy Bar in Santa Maria but live music is everywhere.
- Everywhere does good food, I recommend Cap Fruit, Sabores & Livros and HOT SPOT in Santa Maria.
- Keep away from the restaurants along the beachfront, they're overpriced.
What to do and see
- Due to roads and poor signage, I'd recommend getting on a tour.
- There are virtually no tourist shops around the attractions. There's one cafe with toilets, maximum. Except at Lion Mountain, where there's nothing at all for miles.
- Lots to see if you're into wildlife, lemon sharks at Shark Bay, turtles and
- Blue-eye cave is breathtaking but it needs to be a bright day and you can only see it at midday. Failing that, a dip in the lagoon is a lovely addition/substitute. There's a 2 euro entry fee.
- The mirage at Terra Boa is real, I recommend going even if it's just a conversation piece but only if you can factor it in en-route to somewhere else.
- I despise poverty porn but the shanty town at Espargos is perfectly safe to wander round or grab a drink.
- A swim in a salinas is a must. If you go, make sure it's your last stop before heading back to your accommodation as there are no showers and the salt makes your hair stiff but skin sparkle.
- Palmeira is pretty and quaint fishing village but I wouldn't make a special trip to go there.
- Sal is flat, so there's no hiking but there are plenty of opportunities for sports, particularly flying kites, surfing, quad-biking and horse-riding.
- Beaches around Santa Maria are phenomenal - miles of sandy coast with crystal-clear aquamarine waters - the winds between April and October make the water quite choppy so only go for a dip if you're a strong swimmer, don't end up as a news item.
